Why are my roses dying? : The Garden Rose
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Why are my roses dying?

I don’t know what I’m doing wrong. I’ve never grown roses before so I don’t know how often i should water them. I don’t know anything and I think I’m killing them. How do I take care of them? They look so dead.

Comments

5 Responses to “Why are my roses dying?”

  1. Jaguar88 on June 5th, 2010 9:38 pm

    Global warming

  2. jasmine on June 5th, 2010 9:56 pm

    first of all roses are very hard to grow, they are very finicky… however, you can get info from the nursery that you bought it from or check in the Internet for how to care for roses.com…

  3. mean biach on June 5th, 2010 10:49 pm

    Bacteria accumulate in the vase solution and these block the xylem so that water uptake becomes impossible.

  4. katwoman on June 5th, 2010 11:10 pm

    First you need about 1″ per week once established, more at first. Make sure the bed is somewhat raised for good drainage, they tend to fungus. If they look stressed cut them back 1/3. I love the new 3 in 1 rose products. They have fertilizer, systemic pesticide (this means it gets in the system of the plant – bug bites, bug dies), and a fungicide. Fungicide is very important. Roses tend to get black spot fungus (black spots on leaves, fewer and fewer leaves if untreated). When watering use a drip irrigation around the base of plant, don’t water leaves if possible. Better get a book, roses can be difficult.

  5. glorius angel on June 5th, 2010 11:24 pm

    rose care

    Watering…
    Roses are generally very hardy and, although they will survive drought. They will not thrive. For best results, keep the soil moist at all times . i.e.. When you remove a few centimeters of soil, it should still be slightly moist. Ideally, water by slowly soaking the bed quite thoroughly to 10-15cm. Sprinklers are okay if the top 15cm of soil receives enough water and if the foliage has enough time to dry before nightfall. If the foliage is wet overnight (especially in the cool weather of Spring and Autumn) the plants will become stressed and much more susceptible to diseases.

    Fertilizing…
    Roses are heavy feeders and require 2 or 3 feeds during the season. Apply the first in Spring before the leaves are fully open and then again in December and Jan, following the packet’s dose recommendation. Do not feed in March because the plants should be hardening off for Winter at that time rather than producing soft new growth which is cold sensitive.

    Fertilizing checklist

    After roses are in full leaf, apply a balanced fertilizer to each plant following the manufacturer’s directions

    1. Fertilise when plants are in full leaf

    2. Fertilize again in December or January

    3. For proper hardening of canes for Winter, do not fertilize after March 1st

    Mulching…
    Roses love mulch. A 5-7 cm layer of mulch (e.g.: compost, straw, etc.) stops weeds, evaporation of water and helps keep the roots cool.
    Tips for picking blooms…

    1. Avoid picking flowers in the first year

    2. Never take more than one third of the flower stem to help keep the bush productive and shapely.

    3. Use a shape blade and always cut to an outward facing bud.

    4. If the bush is not growing vigorously, remove the flowers without taking any leaves.

    5. Cut roses early in the morning when the moisture and sugar levels are high.

    6. Remove the thorns and leaves which will be below water level in the vase.

    7. Immerse in warm water and re-cut stems under water. Add a floral preservative to ensure you blooms last longer.

    8. For larger, prize winning blooms, we recommend that you “disbud” by removing all the side buds whilst they are still small. This leaves the plant all its energy to concentrate on making the top bud larger. The end result is fewer, but larger, blooms.

    Spraying and Dusting…

    When and how much you dust and spray depends on your climate and the type of roses you have. For e.g.: Humid climates tend to have problems with blackspot, whilst dry climates with cool nights can encourage mildew. Shrub and hedge roses generally need less spraying.
    Feeding and Spraying Check Chart

    Time of Year What to do How to do it
    Start in Spring when buds begin to swell Use spray or dust regularly, once every 7 days, Apply fertilizer around each plant. DO NOT spray or dust in midday’s hot sun. Dust when dew is on roses. Scatter rose food around each plant and water.
    From appearance of first blooms until hot weather begins. Use spay or dust regularly, once every 10 days. IF YOU USE DUST: Be sure that both upper and lower leaf surfaces are covered with a thin film of dust.
    IF YOU SPRAY See package for detailed instructions on how to mix. Keep sprayer moving to seep spray well mixed. Apply mist spray thoroughly from beneath the leaves so that plants are covered with a thin film of spray residue. See package for detailed instructions.
    Immediately after roses start to bloom Fertilise plants again
    Whenever temperatures rise to about 20C in summer Do NOT spray or dust except after rain or irrigation
    Whenever temperatures fall below about 20C in summer Use spray or dust regularly, once every 10 days
    Six weeks before the first frost or before March 1st. Apply the last fertilizer for the season
    Whenever it rains Spray or dust within 24 hours, continue regular schedule

    Pruning…

    Why we prune roses…
    The main aim or pruning is to remove the old wood, (that will no longer flower) and encourage the development of young, vigorous and healthy stems. Pruning also helps to keep roses to a desired shape and manageable size.
    When to prune…
    The best time is June to July whilst the plants are dormant.
    How Hard you should prune…

    * Hard pruning:
    cut stems back to only 3 or 4 buds. Hard pruning is recommended for newly planted roses or to rejuvenate neglected roses. It results in larger , but fewer blooms.

    * Moderate pruning:
    Stems are cut back to half their length, recommended for all established roses.

    * Light pruning:
    Stems are cut back to two-thirds their length, so that the main stems are merely tipped. This method is used with very vigorous varieties. Light pruning generally results in a profusion of flowers.

    Step by step pruning…

    1. Remove all dead, old or diseased stems.

    2. Remove any old branches (they’ll look dull and grey whilst new growth is red/green and shiny). Cut the stem off at the bud union.

    3. Cut out all very thin stems (less than pencil thickness) and branches that cross over each other or are crowding the center of the plant.

    4. If there are any shoots growing from below the bud union (i.e. “suckers”) remove these also

    5. Only healthy branches now remain. Prune these to the length required depending on whether you are pruning hard or light. When making your cuts, cut on a 45? angle about 1cm above an outward facing bud.

    Trouble shooting…

    Strong rose varieties that are well cared for are generally trouble free.

    “Clever” watering will also help your roses to stay healthy. It is ideal to water roses at their base rather than from overhead so that the foliage does not remain wet and conductive to foliage disease .. if you are using a sprinkler, ensure you water early enough to allow the foliage to dry before nightfall. This is especially important during spring and Autumn, when cool nights and wet foliage encourage foliar diseases.

    The below chart lists rose problems which may arise. However, the choice to apply the solution is yours. You may choose to ignore the problem and accept that some of the blooms will not be pristine perfect. You’ll also find that many of these pests and diseases will come and go with changes in the weather.

    Problem Description Solution
    Aphids. Very small insects, usually green or black, mostly on the underside of leaves and on new growth. Thoroughly hose aphids off foliage; you can also apply insecticidal soaps to control aphids. Ensure you apply to beneath and above foliage surfaces.
    Thrip. Buds turn brown and do not open, or are distorted. Thrip are feeding on the plant’s juices Control with a dust or spray, following the manufacturer’s directions. Spray directly into opening buds.
    Two-spotted mites. Leaves turn yellow, dry out, and in severe cases, fall off the plant. You’ll see tiny webs on the underside of the leaves. Hose the underside of the leaves with water for three days in a row to break the breeding cycle or ask your local nursery for a miticide. Ensure you coat the underside.
    Caterpillars and leaf miners. The foliage becomes badly damaged with holes and are then rolled up by the insects. Remove all damaged foliage by hand or ask your local nursery for a solution to caterpillars and lead miners.
    Yellow leaves Leaves turn yellow and may fall off. Could be caused by poor drainage. Bad weather can slow chlorophyll production, so wait it out. You might need to add some sand to the soil to improve drainage.
    Inter-venial Chlorosis Leaf pales and can turn yellow in between the veins. Usually not a serious problem which can be cause by a lack of iron, nitrogen, manganese or magnesium. It might also indicate a salt build up. Add chelated iron to the soil, or in severe cases, spray iron sulfate on foliage. Apply a solution of epsom salts and water into the soil during the season.
    Black spot Leaves have black spots and eventually fall off. Pick off isolated leaves: control with spray or dust. Provide good air circulation and allow foliage to dry out (refrain from overhead watering).
    Mildew Leaves are distorted and covered with fine white fungus growth. Follow a regular spray or dust programme which controls mildew and leafspot disease.
    Dieback Rose canes turn dark brown or black and die progressively down the stem. Always remove damaged part of the cane, then follow with a regular spray/dust programme. Avoid damaging the canes and seal the wounds after the cuts

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